Spiegelworld’s newest restaurant serves upscale fare despite its retro theme. Is DINER ROSS “Hot Stuff” or “Funkytown”?
When circus-based company Spiegelworld decided to expand beyond production shows into restaurants, its first effort was SUPERFRICO. Described as “Italian American Psychedelic”, the spinoff of now-defunct OPM was an instant slam-dunk. VEGAS 411 ranked SUPERFRICO as “Best New Restaurant of 2021“, with food as deliciously wackadoodle as the decor and live entertainment.
SUPERFRICO Las Vegas
A second SUPERFRICO opened in Atlantic City last summer, along with a new ABSINTHE-like production called THE HOOK. This month, Las Vegas received a quadruple serving of Spiegelworld by way of 99 PRINCE, Glitterloft, DiscoShow, and Diner Ross. We’ve already visited the lounges and given you a sneak peek at DiscoShow (here). Now let’s travel back to the seventies for Diner Ross.
Located on one side of GLITTERLOFT at Linq Hotel, the Diner Ross entry resembles a 24-hour eatery you’d wander into after late-night partying. A hot dog cart serves as the hostess’s desk, enhancing the illusion of a big-city side street. Step inside, and the disco era explodes all around you…
The authentic diner booths and furniture are surrounded by terrific framed photos, album covers, and movie posters (ROLLERBALL!) from the seventies. Servers wear costumes that blend vintage waitress outfits with glittery clubwear. And overhead, the greatest hits of the disco era fill the air.
Photo by Diner Ross
Being a solo diner, I grabbed a stool at the “coffee counter”, which doubles as a well-stocked bar. Like 99 Prince and Glitterloft, Diner Ross offers era-specific cocktails and regional canned beverages. You can peruse the drink menu here.
“Executive Beverage Director Niko Novick’s craft cocktails blend old-school charm with good-times fun. He takes classic riffs and mixes them up to keep things interesting. No scruples, just style, and good taste. Whether you’re a regular or just dropping by, you’ll find a drink with your name on it, served with the laid-back, welcoming vibe that makes this spot a true neighborhood gem.”
The wait staff and bartenders at Diner Ross are exemplary. They mix winning personalities and great looks with warm, attentive care…just like in 1975. My server welcomed me and offered a drink and food menu. That’s when I was yanked back to the harsh reality of 2024.
Perhaps it was my fault; with an NYC diner theme, I expected familiar comfort foods. Dishes like pork chops, spaghetti and meatballs, and grilled cheese with tomato soup. Instead, the menu focused on gourmet creations with extremely hefty prices. Things like Oscietra Caviar, Duck Breast with Grapes ($35), Chargrilled Oysters, Bone Marrow, Foie Gras (duck liver), and a VERY costly 42 oz Tomahawk steak ($180).
It seems as if, inspired by the success of SUPERFRICO‘s crazy concoctions, Executive Culinary Director Anna Altiera was given free rein to go wild. And that works in a restaurant with “freak” suggested in the name. But this hungry eater was expecting rib-sticking classics and was sorely disappointed.
Spiegelworld describes Diner Ross in a variety of colorful ways: “Your friendly neighborhood finer diner”, “New York classics, reimagined”, “Celebrate good times with us”, and “We do things differently here.” Out of all those slogans, only the last one seemed to resonate…and not with the intended effect.
Granted, there are familiar dishes given a novel spin…”Disco Fries” ($22), “French Onion Soup Mac” ($22), and “Delancy Deluxe Burger” ($36). But they’re few and far between, lost among exotic fare like “Turf Tartare” “Mussels and Fries”, and “Fried Olives” ($14). Nope nope nope…sorry, but I’m not feeling anything “disco diner” from this. Bring me Donna Summer and a Chef salad, please.
Nonplussed, this writer selected two entrees that might be found in a modern all-American eatery. The first was Grilled George ($22) a chicken salad/bacon sandwich with American cheese on two slices of toasted marbled rye. My sandwich was quite flavorful, but the included fries were bland, average, and not piping hot like they should be.
My server recommended a Green Goddess Wedge, one of three Diner Ross salads. I went with the VIETNAMESE CHOPPED ($17), a hearty portion of chopped cabbage tossed with peanuts and a mild Asian dressing. It was filling and tasty, but unspectacular. Once again…meh.
I decided to pass on appetizers, side dishes, and desserts for a follow-up visit. But after one meal, I’m not eager to return to Diner Ross. And that’s a shame. Cosmopolitan’s SUPERFRICO gathered a faithful following with its blend of outlandish food and fun. Even locals venture to the Strip to partake in something so unique. I don’t see that happening here.
A restaurant can only get by so long on atmosphere. That’s why Sin City institution PEPPERMILL has been serving great food, reasonable prices (for the Las Vegas Strip), and a vintage diner atmosphere since 1972. I love everything about Spiegelworld and had high hopes for its latest dining experience. But until they adopt “A New Attitude” and tone down “Le Freak”, the creative team at DINER ROSS will have to work harder for the money.
Photo by Diner Ross
RATINGS (on a scale of 1 to 5):
Atmosphere – 5
Service – 5
Food Quality – 3
Menu Selections – 2
Overall Rating – 3.25
Diner Ross, 99 PRINCE, and Glitterloft are open Wednesday through Sunday from 5 pm until “late”. Make reservations by heading here. Linq Resort is located at 3535 S. Las Vegas Boulevard.
All photos by VEGAS 411 except where noted.
