2023 was no doubt a big year for Vegas. The openings of The Sphere and Fontainebleau, along with the Formula One Grand Prix race, underlined the city’s prominence on the international stage.
But folks searching for the city’s authentic soul would do better by visiting the artist-driven Fergusons Downtown (the first “track” on this mixtape). It’s a “city block” encompassing a reconverted old motel with indie stores and eateries. And over on the city’s eastside, there’s the Italian American Club in a standalone white building with fabulously kitschy Roman statues in front. It’s a true Vegas classic that no one should overlook.
Track #1: Fergusons Downtown/Gather House
15-year-old store owner Kumei Underwood of Tofu Tees at Fergusons Downtown. (Image: Vegas 411)
Competing with the Fremont Street Experience and Container Park as downtown destinations is hard. But keep heading further east on Fremont St for a real discovery: Fergusons Downtown. It’s an artistic wonderland created by revitalizing the historic Fergusons Motel, which dates to the ‘40s.
What instantly catches your eye here is the motel’s original neon sign and, in the center courtyard, the tall “Big Rig Jig” sculpture by artist Mike Ross. You’ll also spot the Latin-centric restaurant Peyote with its huge outdoor patio and Mothership Coffee Roasters. Then, wander through all the indie stores by local makers and artists, plus the micro-shops in the adjacent Gather House.
I was immediately taken with Tofu Tees, owned by Kumei Underwood. She’s a 15-year-old Black student, social activist, and daughter of progressive parents who designs T-shirts with messages like “Social Issues Are Not Trends.” They also carry children’s books about critical Black icons like Nina Simone and Aretha Franklin.
Also, don’t miss, among other stores, Mike’s Recovery (locally created wellness products like mineral soaks), Hasta Siempre (cultural books, music vinyl), Desert Shadow (uniquely designed T-shirts by its artist owner), All For Our Country (home goods, jewelry), and For The Globe (women’s vintage fashion).
Track #2: “Michael Ross Nugent, A Tribute To Michael Buble Christmas,” @ the Italian American Club
Michael Nugent performing his Michael Buble tribute Christmas show at the Italian American Club. (Image by Vegas 411)
Having grown up in a predominantly Italian neighborhood in the Bronx, I always feel comfortable in the warm old-school ambiance of the Italian American Club. It’s a restaurant, showroom, and “non-profit social club that remains the hub of the Italian American community.” Knowing that the IAC was a Rat Pack-era hangout sweetens the experience of walking into this still-thriving 60-plus-year-old institution.
Thanks to the hospitality of Vegas producer/designer Cheryl Irwin, I was invited to the “Michael Ross Nugent, A Tribute To Michael Buble Christmas” packed-out show and buffet dinner, which included the IAC’s so-good meatballs. Nugent (no relation to Ted, as he pointed out onstage) held court in the sprawling restaurant’s extensive showroom and was backed by an ace seven-piece band with three horn players.
With his warm, smooth vocals and easy charm, the Buffalo, NY-raised and relatively new Vegas resident mixed Buble originals with holiday classics that Buble is known for singing. Nugent also performed songs Buble has covered, like Nina Simone’s “Feeling Good” and Billy Paul’s cheaters’ anthem “Me and Mrs. Jones.”
Track #3: Eat Your Heart Out Food Hall @Durango Casino & Resort
The NYC-originated Prince St. Pizza makes its Vegas debut at the Eat Your Heart Out food hall at the Durango. (Image: Vegas 411)
Hats off to the smartly curated Eat Your Heart Out food hall at the new Durango Casino & Resort in Vegas’ booming southwest. Among the 11 choices are eateries from LA (Irv’s Burgers, Uncle Paulie’s sandwich shop) and NYC (Prince St. Pizza), plus outposts of Vegas favorites Shang Artisan Noodle and Yu-Or-Mi Sushi.
For authentic Hawaiian street food, don’t forget Ai Pono Café—a thematically perfect addition since Vegas is regarded as the ninth island of Hawaii (for those who missed that memo).
I immediately spotted the long lines when I stopped at the seriously buzzing Eat Your Heart Out for dinner with friends just before Christmas. We opted for dinner at the Cali-centric Summer House from Santa Monica, with its dreamy earth-toned interior, healthy options, and “sunshine vibes all year round,” minus LA’s traffic-choked freeways.
I made a meal out of two top-shelf starters—the Potato Salad Deviled Eggs and the perfectly spiced Prime Beef Meatballs—and on the way out, bought one of the restaurant’s excellent signature oversized cookies at their cookie bar.
Track #4: “A John Waters Christmas,” @ 24 Oxford at the Virgin Hotel
The stage is set for the outrageous “A John Waters Christmas: Let’s Blow It Up” at 24 Oxford inside the Virgin Hotel. (Image: Vegas 411)
Long live John Waters. At 77, the legendary film director (“Pink Flamingos”) and author (“Crackpot”) is still killing audiences with his riotous stand-up act and ask-me-anything Q&A sessions.
Decorating a Christmas tree is like “forcing drag on nature,” Waters giddily noted to his rabid devotees, including Pia Zadora (whom he cast in “Hairspray”) at the intimate 24 Oxford showroom at the Virgin Hotel. Make no mistake, this is Waters’ version of Christmas. His rapid-fire wit and lovably twisted wisdom are second to none. “Can’t fall asleep?” he asked. “Try masturbation, it’s nature’s melatonin.”
Waters threw darts at everything under the sun: straight men wearing shorts on airplanes, boxed water, pickleball, the difficulty of navigating a non-binary world, and fallen political imposter George Santos, whom Waters recently declined to profile for “Interview” magazine (as he mentioned onstage).
The secret to his career as a filmmaker? “I’ve made exploitation films for art theaters,” he said with glee, noting his major exhibition, “Pope of Trash,” that’s now at The Academy Museum in LA.
Track #5: Casa Calavera @ Virgin Hotels
It’s “Day of the Dead” every day at Casa Calavera inside the Virgin Hotel. (Image: Vegas 411)
Wondering where to celebrate Día de Los Muertos (“Day of The Dead”) all year? Try Casa Calavera at Virgin Hotels Las Vegas, with its joyous, colorful murals of calavera skulls and a centerpiece altar honoring the dearly departed.
The restaurant—a spinoff of the original one from San Jose del Cabo, Mexico— has an array of distinctive dishes. A starter like the Avocado & Roasted Corn Taquitos, with sweet potato and vegan cheese, was immediately seductive. Another small plate, billed as La Quesadilla, is a little meal onto itself—the roasted chicken, grilled onions, poblano rajas, and jack cheese all magically blend. The chicken enchiladas entree also achieved liftoff with its earthy guajillo red sauce.
Casa Calavera has an outdoor patio overlooking the hotel’s beautiful pool. Particularly when the temperature warms up, this is an essential leave-the-cruel-world-behind Vegas spot.
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